Olive oil under pressure: how climate change is affecting Andalusian olive oil

Olive oil has become an indispensable part of our daily lives: a drizzle on a salad, a dip alongside a sandwich, or incorporated into various cosmetics. Yet, this "liquid gold" conceals a growing problem. The olive oil sector in Andalusia is under increasing pressure due to climate change. What does this mean for Spanish olive growers and, ultimately, for our wallets?

Endless rows of olive trees bearing countless olives ready for cultivation. Around the Spanish city of Jaén (Andalusia, southern Spain), you can't miss them. "With over 66 million olive trees covering 550,000 hectares (more than 25% of Spain's total olive grove area and 42% of Andalusia's total agricultural land), Jaén accounts for 20% of global olive oil production," according to a study by scientists from Jaén. (See Figure 1 for olive oil production in Spain.) This region's ideal climate makes it ideal for olive trees.

Yet these ideal weather conditions are changing. Summers are becoming longer and drier, winters shorter and wetter. The table below (Figure 2) shows that the average temperature in the area has risen by almost 2 degrees Celsius compared to 1979. The last three years, in particular, have been extremely warm, with prolonged droughts in the summer and unprecedented rainfall in the winter.

An olive grove spanning generations

Pedro Jose Gómez (35) is an olive farmer in this region and knows better than anyone how the climate is changing. Over a cup of coffee, he explains that he spends every free minute working in his father's olive grove, which he will later inherit. "My family comes from a long tradition of farming, so I inherited working in the fields. It's kind of a legacy. I've worked in the fields since I was little. Honestly, it's never been an obstacle; it's just a part of me," he says, his eyes shining. Pedro Jose is proud of his work as an olive farmer and of the region he comes from. "For me, it's a part of who we are. Jaén symbolizes agriculture, the olive tree, the olive grove, and the olive itself. Olive oil was born here, and I'm proud that it's a part of me and that I can show people what we call 'liquid gold.'"

Starting a business isn't easy for a budding olive farmer in Spain. "You need at least 1,500 trees to be profitable. Without that, or someone to rent out the land, it's almost impossible." He takes a sip of his coffee and adds: "Government support is crucial. My generation is still doing the work, but I'm afraid the next generation won't continue."

Pedro Jose emphasizes that working as an olive farmer in Spain is much more than a job. It's a way of life he's proud of. A grove passed down from generation to generation is essentially a piece of heritage. A heritage that's becoming an increasingly challenging endeavor for many young farmers.

The liquid gold shrinks

"The liquid gold," as Pedro Jose describes it, is threatened by the climate. He has seen the climate change dramatically in recent years: "The rainy seasons, in particular, have changed. They haven't disappeared, but they're coming later. We used to have summer thunderstorms in August, but now they only arrive in September or October, which is why the olives ripen earlier."

The prolonged drought in the summer of 2023 had major consequences for production throughout Spain. The study by the European Environmental Policy Institute states: "... a decrease in the country of more than 40% compared to previous years (2019-2023), with significant economic losses for the sector." Pedro Jose estimates that the harvest from his olive grove has decreased by 20 percent. "The declining production is related to the higher temperatures that accelerate tree development: flowering and pollination are less synchronized, resulting in less fruit." This study on how climate change impacts table olives also states: "Heat waves and drought cause stress to the trees, reducing quality and yield. Small and dry olives contain less oil, which will further reduce yields."

“I've worked in the fields since I was little, and honestly, it's never been an obstacle, but rather a part of my childhood.”

Pests and diseases as an additional challenge

Besides drought and heat, olive trees are also affected by disease. The bacterium Xylella fastidiosa spreads more rapidly due to rising temperatures. The Spanish National Research Council conducted research on the bacterium in the Mediterranean region. "The rapid spread of the disease has already led to the destruction of crops in Italy (21 million olive trees in the Apulia region)." This bacterium was also a major problem in Andalusia. Although it appears to have been eradicated, farmers still need to take additional measures. Preventatively combating bacteria is expensive and labor-intensive. Farmers must increasingly use new methods to contain diseases. "The pesticides we are currently allowed to use are more environmentally friendly, but less effective. We have to use them more frequently, which increases costs," says Pedro Jose.

Innovations as a solution

Fortunately, there are solutions. Companies like Fundación del Olivar are helping farmers maintain production levels. Javier Olmedo, the company's director and manager, sits at a long conference table. He explains that one of the company's goals is to share knowledge about olive oil and help farmers with sustainable development. Examples include the use of drones, sensors, and more efficient water usage in cultivation. Rubbing his hand across the table, Olmedo says, "These innovations and cultivation methods have improved traditional and intensive olive groves. Innovation is also penetrating into the oil production facilities, improving both quality and production."

“Sometimes harvesting is done at night to maintain quality in high temperatures”

Besides the difference that a traditional olive grove has a lower tree density than an intensive orchard, there seems to be another major difference. "A research team from the University of Jaén has discovered that traditional olive groves absorb more CO2 than intensive farming methods." This makes it seem as if traditional olive groves are better for the environment, but Olmedo comments: "The problem is that the production process of traditional olive groves is more expensive than intensive cultivation." On the other hand, the price-quality ratio of traditional cultivation is better. Intensive cultivation can be cheaper and produce more olives, but it loses its sustainability and absorbs less CO2. It is therefore up to the farmer to decide how to cultivate and what the considerations are.

Through training, farmers receive information about the new innovations and how to cultivate in different, more environmentally friendly ways. Fundación del Olivar also organizes a biennial trade fair (called EXPOLIVA) to offer farmers, industries, and international partnerships the opportunity to connect. Olmedo indicates that farmers are satisfied with the work they do. Pedro Jose disagrees: "In our region, we don't have enough visibility for companies like Fundación del Olivar. I think such foundations should give more attention to our local, high-quality oil."

Olive pits heat houses?!

Besides many solutions for more environmentally friendly and efficient olive cultivation, olive pits are reused. These pits have (partly) heated homes in Spain for decades, according to an article in the Spanish newspaper El Pais. "In an average season, Spain produces approximately six million tons of olives, 15 percent of which are pits." These pits are used as biofuel, and the Jaén region is the leader in Spain in this area.

Will the olive farmer survive?

The new innovations sound like positive news for olive growers and the climate. Yet, this is partly true. Due to the changing climate and the resulting reduced harvest, fewer workers are also needed in the olive sector. The two poor harvests in 2022 and 2023 had a major impact on employment. The independent trade magazine Olive Oil Time published an article about this. It states: "Due to the sharp decline in available jobs for the second year in a row, Espejo said it could encourage young people to leave Jaén." Pedro Jose also sees that it is difficult for young farmers to enter this sector. He looks into the distance and says: "A lot of government support is needed. Not only from Europe but also from Spain itself, to make agriculture attractive to young people. My generation is still doing it, but I fear the next generation won't continue."

Higher production costs, such as those associated with pesticide use, are also making it harder for farmers to stay afloat. "We have to spray more often, which increases costs. Maintaining a good balance between price and quality is becoming a challenge." But that's not all, according to Pedro Jose: "Competition is also increasing. More and more people are selling their own olive oil instead of through larger cooperatives."

So, it's becoming increasingly challenging for (young) farmers to grow olives. Despite the poor harvest years, Olmedo sees the demand for olive oil only increasing worldwide. He brushes one thing aside, saying: "Olive oil is promising for the future of farmers. Globally, it represents about 2% of fat consumption, but demand is growing in Europe, Asia, and the US. Olive oil is healthy and offers a promising future, including for products like olive leaves and biofuels."

So, it all depends on how you view the olive farmer's existence. On the one hand, the climate and higher production costs pose a threat. On the other hand, it seems that more and more people want to use olive oil. The future of the profession isn't likely to be a threat, but the sheer volume of work within this sector seems more the problem.

“My generation still does it, but I fear the next generation will not continue it”

Is olive oil becoming a luxury product?

Climate change is putting extra pressure on the sector. Will we feel this in our wallets, and will olive oil become a luxury product as a result? Pedro Jose: "It's already happening, considering the price. People don't realize how much work goes into it." The high prices are leading to high-profile promotions. According to an article by RTL Nieuws, olive oil was the most stolen product in supermarkets for a while in 2024. Olmedo sees the rising prices differently: "It's not just about price. Olive oil represents health. In South Korea and Japan, it's almost considered a medical product." Although demand for olive oil will increase, it must also be feasible for farmers to meet it. "Hopefully, growing will become easier and faster in the future." He takes his last sip of coffee and says with a doubtful expression: "Although that's difficult to predict because of the climate."

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